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This 3D printer is a compact version of the prior release by the company, the Original Prusa MK3S, and promises for providing best in class Add to wishlist Added to wishlist Removed from wishlist 0. Budget is the first thing that is important for any user and the company has just banked upon this logic by providing them a 3D printer that falls LulzBot Mini 3D Printer.
The open-source hardware of Lulzbot Mini comes packed with useful features and makes it easier for users to print with minimum effort. This is an FDM Tiertime UP mini 2 3D Printer. Arguably, the most integral part of this printer is its HEPA filter. The complete design of this part is worth applauding. If you use this printer at Simple in design and straightforward in its setup, Da Vinci Jr 1. Model Da Vinci Jr. Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer.
With great features and various inbuilt capabilities for higher resolution printing, Form 2 has gotten into the list of most popular choices of 3D Ultimaker 2 Plus 3D Printer. Hence, you can expect this 3D printer to have similar functionalities Its build plate quickly Qidi Tech.
CubePro Trio. CubePro Trio has a controlled process environment. This 3D printer eccentrically comes with a controlled climate chamber that makes sure that the Dimensions Beeverycreative Beethefirst. This is the first 3D printer by the manufacturer. Until this Beeverycreative has been a renowned name in the production of micro-controller industry. The first thing that one would notice in M3D Micro is the diverse color options that the printer is available in.
One can choose from the list of Roboze One Plus 3D Printer. Recognized as one of the most popular home-use machines, the MakerGear M2 3D printer has a lot of amazing functionalities that give it an edge over The BCN3D Epsilon W27 is a very capable 3D printer for professional applications that can deliver solid parts crafted with industrial-grade Editorial Team.
Added to wishlist Removed from wishlist 1. Added to wishlist Removed from wishlist 0. About Us. Sign Up for Weekly Newsletter. This website uses cookies to improve your experience.
We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are as essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Although the heat from the platform is often enough it is also recommended to add a thin layer of glue to the platform to promote adhesion.
Your printer will have come with a small stick of glue, spread a thin layer of glue onto the platform. Then, with a moistened rag or piece of paper, spread the glue out evenly onto the platform. As the bed heats the water will evaporate and leave a very nice thin and even layer of glue.
It is also important to make sure your bed is levelled as perfectly as you can. The plastic must be squished onto the platform so that it bonds properly. Besides preventing the print from coming loose or warping it also makes the bottom layer nice and shiny. You want the lines to be touching each other and all look identical to each other. Here's an example of what you're looking for:. Notice how all the lines are uniform and touching. If the lines show signs of gaps your bed is levelled too low.
If the lines are squished and messy it is likely your bed is too close. A built in feature in cura called "brim" is another great way to help keep your print from warping. This feature puts what looks like the brim of a hat on the bottom layer of your print to help fight against the pulling forces of the cooling print.
Since this brim is only a single layer thick it is very easy to remove once the print is complete. The Ultimaker2 Go doesn't come with a heated bed so here you'll mostly have to rely on using the supplied blue painters tape and brim. Make sure you really press it onto the platform so that it doesn't easily lift off. You can also clean the surface of the tape with some alcohol to get rid of the waxy surface and any finger oils.
This will make the print stick much harder. But since the bed on the Go is much smaller, warping is less of a problem. Besides needing a higher bed temperature remember to change the material setting on your machine to ABS you also need to be more careful with cooling.
If at all possible try to print without using the cooling fans at all. Ideally the printer should be enclosed to keep a constant temperature in the printing area. To promote bed adhesion you can make a slurry of ABS by dissolving a few bits of scrap ABS in a jar with Acetone Spread this slurry like a glue onto your build platform.
A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer. Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer.
If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor. It is difficult to reach the set screws that secure the pulley to the motor and you will therefore have to remove the white cover plates that the motors sit behind. These panels are held in place with a single screw on the side of the machine if you have a slightly older printer.
On the newer ones there are two screws, one on the back and one on the side. Remove the screw and then lift the covers off by tilting the cover slightly towards the front and them lifting them out.
The only thing holding them in place is a small metal tab at the bottom of the cover that sticks down into the bottom of the printer. On the Go there are no screws to remove. Instead the covers are held in place with small tabs that stick into the walls of the printer and into the bottom. These covers require a little bit of brute force to remove.
Try pushing in the areas marked in the picture below and then pull the cover to the left. You'll likely have to wiggle the cover around a bit to get it loose.
As you might imagine getting the covers back on can be a bit of a challenge but with some patience and finesse they'll snap back into place. Now you will be able to reach the set screws of the pulleys. If you can't reach the screws easily simply move the head around so that they rotate into view. Undo the screw a turn or so and then push the pulley closer to the stepper motor.
The pulley should be as close as possible without touching the stepper motor. Don't forget to re-tighten the screws when you are done and make sure they are very tight so that the pulleys cannot slip. To confirm that this is the case you can use a black marker and put marks on the pulleys and a matching mark on the axes.
After printing a test print and seeing a layer shift you can then inspect your marks and see which pulley s have moved. It is likely that the pulley s that need tightening are those connected to the short belts.
Tighten the set screws that hold the pulleys in place very tightly, probably a bit tighter than you expect. The small allen key that came with your printer will flex as you tighten the screws. Don't forget to check the pullies that are attached directly to the motor shaft, you can read about those in the section above. Try to move the head around manually with the power turned off.
The head should move around quite easily and there should be similar resistance in both the X and Y direction.
If the head is moving stiffly it is probably a good idea to give the rods a drop of light machine oil each such as sewing machine oil. Another cause for stiff movement can be misalignment of the rods so that they are not perfectly square. If you notice that the axes aren't square you can fix this by loosening the set screws on the two pulleys of one rod so that the sliding block on that side can move without affecting the opposing block.
Nudge the block the needed amount and then re-tighten the set screws. It could also be that the part you are printing detached from the platform during the print. This should be fairly easy to see as the part will have shifted position from where it was originally.
Make sure that your glass plate is held firmly in place. If the clips aren't gripping the plate firmly enough it might shift slightly during the print. If they are too loose you can use a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the clips together. In rare cases there could be an issue with end stops triggering unexpectedly due to cross talk between wires.
Re-routing the cables can help with this. But again, this is a very rare occurrence. Yet another, even more rare, cause can be overheating stepper drivers.
A design change of the traces on the mainboard can lead to more current than expected to get to the stepper drivers. This causes the stepper motor to overheat which in turn kicks in the overheating protection in the driver. As the stepper overheats it shuts off for a fraction of a section to cool down and this is when the shift occurs. Pillowing show up as bumps in the top surface of a print and can either be open or closed. The most important thing here is to make sure that your cooling fans are going top speed when the printer is laying down the top layer.
Without proper cooling the thin strands of plastic tend to curl up and stick up above the surface of the print and make it harder for subsequent layers to properly span over the gap. With good cooling the strands gradually grow over the gaps until it closes fully. Besides cooling you also need to print a thick enough top surface so that the printer can properly close it.
In general you should make sure that you are printing at least six top layers. Since the top and bottom thickness is set in mm you will have to do some basic math to make sure you're printing enough layers. If you are printing with a 0. In general you will need more top layers the thinner your layer height is.
With very thin layers the thin strands of plastic are more likely to break before fully bridging over the gaps in the infill and providing a nice base for the following layer. You will therefore need to print more layers to make up for this. In other words very thin layers can be another cause of pillowing. This image shows two prints done with exactly the same settings, except for one, the bottom print did not have the cooling fans enabled.
The difference between infill percentages at 24 or lower and 25 and higher is how cura lays down each layer. The infill is a crosshatch pattern made with diagonal intersecting lines. At lower densities both directions are laid down for each layer while at higher densities it is only laid down in one direction per layer. So, for layer X it will do lines from the lower left to the upper right. It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be.
This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot.
You can decrease this effect by levelling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion. It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard. However, if you are the one who created the part there is a trick you can use to help get rid of this problem.
Simply put a small chamfer on the bottom of your print. How big to make this chamfer depends on your print settings and what kind of edge you're looking to create. A good starting point is a 45 degree 0. You might be tempted to use a fillet instead of a chamfer for a rounder shape but these create a very severe overhang closest to the bed and rarely come out quite the way you expect.
Feel free to experiment though. A fairly common issue on the Ultimaker Original in particular especially the kit versions is that people try to print things with circles and the circles don't come out perfectly circular. At the same time infill lines are not touching the outside perimeter properly.
You may also see that infill lines are grouped in pairs where two lines are touching followed by a gap and then another two lines touching. Both of these problems stem from the same issue and that is backlash caused by slack belts. Mainly it is the so called "short belts", which are the belts that are connected to the stepper motors, not being tight enough. Thankfully this is an easy fix.
This image is a nice example of lines grouped in pairs. Notice that there are actually two lines very close together followed by a gap and then another two lines close together. To make sure the belts are tightened properly you need to loosen the four screws that hold the stepper motor in place. Don't remove the screws fully, just loosen them so that you can move the stepper motor up and down. Now press down firmly on the top of the motor so that the belt is nice and tight.
While keeping pressure on the motor re-tighten the screws to lock the motor in place. Do this for both motors. It's also a good idea to make sure that the rods are nicely lubricated. A single drop of light oil, such as sewing machine oil, on each rod is enough. An additional step you might want to take while you're at it is to ensure that the set screws of the pulley on the motor is nice and tight, tighter than you might think should be enough.
The primary countermeasure for stringing is something called retraction. When you have retraction enabled the printer will "suck" the filament back a short distance before moving the print head over an open space. By sucking the filament in a bit it helps prevent plastic from dripping from the nozzle during the travel move.
So what you should do first is to make sure that retraction is actually enabled in cura. Make sure this box is checked. You can check if retractions will happen without printing by looking at the layer view in cura after slicing your object.
You switch to layer view with the big button in the upper right corner of the window. The retractions are indicated by small blue lines that go from the print and straight up. It can sometimes be tricky to see these lines without zooming in and rotating the view around. As you can see it can be hard to spot these small lines unless you zoom in for a closer look.
The other blue line indicates the travel move that the retraction is preparing for. Another thing you can do to lessen the effect of stringing is to increase the travel speed. By increasing the travel speed you give the head less time to ooze plastic but you also help snap off any strands that form instead of dragging them along.
This image shows clearly how lowering the temperature has a very positive effect on the amount of stringing. As always when lowering temperature you must also make sure that you are printing slowly enough to prevent under extrusion. Note that the temperatures shown in this image is for PLA, for other materials you may not be able to go this low.
Or conversely, you may be able to go even lower. On the Ultimaker2 the speed and length of the retraction is set on the printer. The default values work well but feel free to play around. Increasing the retraction length for example can make up for sloppiness in the connection of the bowden tube to the print head.
Finally it should be noted that some filaments are simply prone to stringing and no matter what you do it might be all but impossible to completely eliminate them. Even different colours from the same manufacturer can differ in how much they string.
Ringing is what we call the small waves or shadows that usually appear around sharp corners on a print. It's often very apparent if you have text on your print as you will see what looks like shadows of the text. This happens when the print head makes a sudden direction change and the inertia of the head causes vibrations that show up in the print. To combat this there's a couple of things you can do.
Simply slowing down your print speed will help lessen the effect. Decreasing the acceleration of the printer will make a big impact on the reduction of ringing without affecting print speed too heavily. Try or and see how that affects your print. There's also another defect that can look like ringing while it actually isn't. Something that can happen is that infill shows through to the outside layer. This can look similar to ringing. To get rid of this the solution is to print thicker outer walls to hide the infill.
Try printing at least two outer shells which, with a standard nozzle, will equate to 0. By default cura will print the infill before the walls, this makes it more likely that the infill will show through to the outer wall.
The reason for printing in this order is because it helps with overhangs. Excessive temperature can also cause strange vertical lines in a print. Try lowering the temperature slightly and see if that helps. Yet another thing to try is to rotate your part 45 degrees on the print bed. Some users have reported that this has gotten rid of vertical lines on the print.
The reason overhangs come out uglier than a straight wall is simply because new layers are not properly supported by the preceding layer. Rather than fully resting and being anchored in place by the previous layer the new layers are partially printed into mid air and tend to sag down slightly or curl up.
Sometimes these issues accumulate making each layer worse than the last. Curling around corners when using thin layers seems to be especially problematic. Dealing with overhangs is tricky, there are many variables that will affect how well or badly they will be printed. Temperature, print speed, amount of overhang, layer height, material, and cooling all play a part in how an overhang will print. Like so many other things cooling plays one of the biggest roles in how well an overhang will print.
If the object you're trying to print is small there's a chance that, due to the way the nozzle is positioned, the right fan never gets a chance to properly cool the print. A prime example of this is the right ear of the Ultimaker robot. A way around this is to print more than one object at the same time. By doing this the print head will move between the two objects and allow the layer of one object cool down while the same layer is being printed on the other copy. This also helps greatly when the layer currently being printed is very small.
When printing very small details such as the antennas on the Ultimaker robot the print head will stay over the same spot for quite some time and transfer a lot of heat into the print which will deform the layer quite badly. Another variable is layer height. Depending on your print, sometimes a thicker layer height will be helpful in improving the quality and sometimes a thinner layer is helpful. Thinner layers seem to create a more pronounced upward curling of the edges and especially around sharp corners.
Printed about 2 kg of filament and printer is still working great. Excellent starter printer. Researching for next purchase. Color: Black Verified Purchase. This unit was purchased as a starter printer for my family to do small odd jobs, parts and gaming goodies. Resolution is outstanding, and it's amazingly simple to set up and use immediately IF you follow the instructions in the manual and tutorials on the Official Monoprice Youtube channel.
Bed leveling does not mean physically level, but that the print bed is equal to the hot print end. It only took me about 10 minutes to do, and all my prints have come out amazing for 2 solid days now, it's done about 14 hours of printing already and I have had NO fails yet - it'll happen. Things you will want to do to save time and frustration: 1. The sample filament that comes with it will get used in about 30 min on one print, you will want 2.
You can order these on Amazon as well. Download the latest version of Ultimaker Cura in advance of the unit showing up, and get familliar with how to use it to convert files from Thingiverse. Get a 2" putty knife for removal of prints. Clean the print bed with rubbing alcohol regularly to avoid stuck prints 6. Get a role of 2" blue tape in advance of needing it, the build tape on the unit will wear out. Reviewed in Canada on December 26, Its been going non stop since I got it.
This is a V2 with with a black mat installed on the bed that looks like Build Tak. I would recommend this to anyone that wants to try out 3D printing at a very low price point. I wasn't expecting such good output from something so cheaply priced. The build of the unit is solid as well. When I got it I was so excited, everything was set up and all I needed to do is plug it in and level the bed.
I did so and it printed amazingly. I printed the test cat and I was completely blown away. I can't describe it other than you are basically creating something from 'nothing'. Other than 1. I found Thingiverse and started downloading various things to print. All was well until 2 days after I received it I got a sensor failed error and it wouldn't heat up.
I tried various things and determined via Google that a heat thermistor has failed and I would need to replace it. I was having none of that and contacted Amazon for a replacement return.
This was Friday night and Amazon being the amazing company they are, had a new one in my hands on Monday. I'm in Toronto and it came from Vancouver.
The second unit worked for 4 days until I went to cancel a print because I selected the wrong one. Instead of what it does normally, the print head dove into the bed and scratched it really badly. I thought it wasn't so bad and tried printing a few things afterwards. I had no luck with anything. I contacted Monoprice Support but didn't hear anything after a week so I decided to return it to Amazon to spend a little more and get a better printer. Pros: Great first printer No real setup out of the box other than bed leveling The prints look really good Cons: Failed sensors seem to be a common theme when you Google it No word from customer support when contacted Print bed is small Overall I give this printer two stars.
If the second printer didn't fail I would've kept it around after I upgraded to a better one. However, at full price I wouldn't say it's worth it. It's not that much extra to get a print bed that is almost double the size and a better printer overall. This is the third replacement printer i have received and after just 1 month's usage it has stopped heating the bed and it would mess up multiple times.
Save your money dont buy this printer! If you are looking for anything that will last more than a couple of prints this is the wrong printer! Reviewed in Canada on March 2, Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations. Back to top. Get to Know Us. Make Money with Us.
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Clean feeder ultimaker 3 free
Sold by. Shows what's inside. Item often ships in manufacturer container to reduce packaging. To hide what's inside, choose Ship in Amazon packaging at checkout. Return policy: Eligible for Return, Refund or Replacement within 30 days of receipt This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt. Read full return policy. To access this option, go to Your Orders and choose Get product support. Add an Accessory:. Add a gift receipt for easy returns.
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Some of these items ship sooner than the others. Show details Hide details. Choose items to buy together. Get it as soon as Tuesday, Aug In Stock. Customers also search Previous page. Next page. From the manufacturer. MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2 Too often, getting a low-cost 3D printer means getting a box of ill-fitted parts with poorly written and incomplete documentation. Open Source The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with any type of filament from any manufacturer.
Improved version An improved version of the 3D printer in the world. Ready to Print Unlike most other low-cost 3D printers, this printer ships fully assembled and has already been calibrated at the factory.
What's in the box 1x 3D Printer. User Manual PDF. Customer reviews. How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Learn more how customers reviews work on Amazon.
Images in this review. Reviews with images. See all customer images. Top reviews Most recent Top reviews. Top reviews from the United States. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. I just received this printer and so far it's amazing! However I've noticed some people on youtube or Verified Purchase. Ok I just received this printer and so far it's amazing! However I've noticed some people on youtube or other places that shows them having a bit of trouble setting it up so if you're planning on getting this printer use the following steps to have an awesome experience.
Order a spool of Hatchbox 1. The sample PLA included isn't enough for anything 1. The VERY first thing you do is use an X-acto knife to cut away the corners of masking tape covering the bed screws! Plug in the power supply and turn it on 5. The nozzle won't dig it's way into the print bed because what? YES we lowered the bed first! Now use a strip of regular typing paper and gradually start to raise each corner while checking the tension on the paper until you feel some resistance but not too much.
In other words like a guitar we tune up not down! After each print leave the filament in the nozzle and never try to pull it out once it cools because you'll break the hotend! To switch filament Empty spool or different color Preheat to wait for it to reach that temp, extrude a little bit and then pull it out from up top I wish this info was put together in one place like this when I was reading reviews, It took me like 4 weeks to gather all the steps.
Now stop thinking about it and just order it! If you purchased a printer in the last month or so, please check your unit to see if you received a V1 or a V2 printer.
Some Google-fu will show you that Monoprice is having an issue with labeling V1 and V2 units in their warehouse. There purportedly quite a big difference between the V2 and V1 printers in terms of print quality and reliablity, so please do make sure that you are getting what you paid for. I will be returning mine. I am a 3d printing beginner and didn't want to spend much on my first printer. I wasn't expecting much from the printer so my expectations weren't high.
I watched as many YouTube videos on setting up the printer as I could. As soon as I got the printer I flashed the screen and rom as well as changed its settings according to the videos. I didn't use the filament that came with the printer as there was very little of it.
I started printing the included model of the cat and it came out great. This can also result in horizontal cracks in upper parts. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly. The first layer does not stick properly, and some parts come loose.
There are unwanted lines at the bottom. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result. Also important: the print bed has to be as clean as possible. Fingerprints on the plate can prevent the first layer from sticking to the plate.
One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight. The printer failed to provide the amount of plastic required for printing the skipped layers. This is called temporary under-extrusion. Also, the extra distance helps prevent excessive adhesion issue that for example might occur when printing on glass or PEI beds. In order to do so: Heat up your bed and nozzle to proper printing temperature, retract filament a bit and make sure the nozzle is clean and no filament is oozing out during the leveling process.
Move the heated nozzle to the first corner of the bed. Slide a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Loosen or tighten the bed level for that corner screw until you notice a bit of drag when sliding the paper under it. Continue to the next corner, position your nozzle over it, adjust the screw so you get the same amount of drag. Do so for at least all four corners, then check the middle of the bed. Platform is warped Signs your platform is warped: While printing the first layer, a warped bed will show effects of the nozzle being too near or too far.
You see lumps, build-up or an uneven coat of your favorite bed adhesive. If so, chances are high something was or is still sticking to the bed there that caused the dent or the nozzle was too close in that spot.
When printing the first layer over a fingerprint on a glass plate for example, you can usually see the print bubble up in that spot Explanation: A dirty print surface will make your adhesion suffer. How to fix: Every proper slicer out there has the option to specify a different print speed for your first layer. Explanation: Print distance unless compensated by the printer needs to match your first layer height and the amount of plastic that is actually extruded while printing your first layer.
How to fix: Calibrate the extruder steps required to extrude the requested amount of filament. Check your extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to ensure proper amount of filament is extruded. Check that you selected the proper filament size 1. Ensure filament can be transported properly i. This is a very common cause of under-extrusion or uneven extrusion. See [Clogged Nozzle]. Explanation: Many 3D printing first layer problems are caused from the incorrect printing temperature during the first layer as it directly affects adhesion to the build plate.
Explanation: Bed temperature if your printer is equipped with a heated bed has a lot of influence on how well your first layer will stick to the bed. Part cooling fan settings Signs you need to check your part cooling fan settings: If your part cooling fan is spinning while printing the very first layer you need to look at your fan settings.
Explanation: Enabled part cooling fans harden the printed line before proper bonding has occurred. How to fix: Disable the part cooling fan for the first layer. Use build plate adhesion helpers Signs you need to use a build plate adhesion helper: If you have checked all of the above and your print is still not sticking, you may want to consider using a build plate adhesion helper. Explanation: Adhesion helpers can be as simple as using a brim or a raft. Prints Sticking Too Much Maybe less common than the opposite problem with prints not sticking or warping, but prints sticking excessively to your print bed may happen.
Possible reasons and fixes include: Nozzle to bed distance See [Nozzle too close]. Explanation: A hotter bed temperature means increased adhesion. Explanation: Adding an additional film between your bed and the print will ensure that the print will detach taking away the coating with it instead of tearing up the bed surface. Extrusion multiplier Signs your extrusion multiplier needs changing: Your prints are sticking too much and are hard to remove.
Explanation: The extrusion multiplier will affect the pressure on the material flow onto the bed which will alter the adhesion of the print. Less pressure on the material flow on the bed will lower the adhesion of the print How to fix: Slightly decrease the extrusion multiplier and perform a small test after each change until the adhesion is correct.
Explanation: Freezing the print and the print bed hardens everything which makes it easier to remove. How to fix: Put the affixed print and bed into a freezer for a few hours. Filament specific tips PETG is known to be strong enough to rip chunks out of glass plates when cooling down after a print or bonding permanently to a PEI bed.
Flexible filaments have a habit of sticking way to well to certain bed surfaces. Add Kapton tape for flexible filaments. Peel the Kapton tape from the bed, then the tape from the bottom of your print to minimize the risk of damaging your print when trying to pry it off your bed. Warping Warping can be caused by a few different variables but is fairly easy to recognise and resolve. Explanation: Your prints are sticking too much and are hard to remove. How to fix: See [Print not sticking to the bed].
Print a little cooler depending on the initial printing temperature. See below for more information on heated enclosures. Print thinner layers. For example starting at a typical 0. This will reduce stress on your part during printing. You can locate rigid. Inconsistent Extrusion: How To Fix Under Extrusion 3D printing under extrusion is one form of inconsistent extrusion the other being over extrusion.
Signs of under extrusion: The signs are easy to spot: you end up with weak prints that crumble, crack or tear under even slight stress, you have visible gaps in your objects, walls start becoming see through because solid areas show spongy patches instead.
How to fix: Under extrusion in general Make sure your filament can unspool freely from the reel. Check the filament path for any blockages or areas of strong friction.
Verify the filament diameter is consistent. Especially very cheap filaments suffer from fluctuations in filament diameter. Check the extrusion settings in your slicer, namely filament diameter, extrusion multiplier. Check proper print temperature and speed.
Try printing hotter and slower. Also see [filament not feeding properly]. For some reason or another, your 3D printer stops extruding mid print: Filament has stripped or is blocked in the extruder.
See [Clogged Nozzle] Filament is kinked, snapped or ran out. The filament has twisted or you got a knot on the reel. Sometimes loosening the feeder gear idler pressure onto the filament can help. Overheated stepper drivers. A lot of tinkerers like to increase the Vref of their stepper drivers, often needlessly.
This could lead to overheated steppers. Also, when printing high temperature filaments in an enclosed or heated build chamber steppers tend to get considerably hotter. Nozzle clogged mid print. This again can have a lot of different causes. See [Clogged Nozzle] If it happens very early in the print, it might be too much back pressure because the nozzle is too close to the bed.
See [Nozzle too close]. In general: Try printing hotter or slower. But do not exceed the maximum print temperature of the filament, as it might start to deteriorate in your nozzle and clog. Very common error is to boil rigid ink PLA by exceeding the maximum print temperature. Check for warping. Warped areas are closer to the nozzle increasing back pressure. See [Warping] Monitor nozzle temperature while printing, check for high drops in print temperature.
Keep your nozzle clean, especially after switching between different filament types. When using particle filled filaments, consider using a bigger nozzle. Flexible filament got stuck. Flexible filaments are difficult to print with most extruders out there, as they tend to escape the intended filament path and simply get stuck. Try printing way slower, try printing hotter within the recommended range and maybe even consider upgrading to a different extruder design specialised in printing flexible filaments.
Also see [Filament not feeding properly]. Under extrusion at the beginning of a print Under extrusion at the beginning of a print is common and to a point to be considered normal. Consider using a skirt as this will show how consistently the material is being laid down before you waste filament on the printed object itself Modify your start code in your slicer to add some extra priming.
Often, not extruding properly at the beginning of a print is a result of the nozzle being too close to the bed or issues mentioned in the sections above.
Check print temperature, you might be printing too cold. Under extrusion after retraction During a 3D printing retraction, especially with very aggressive retract settings, there could be not enough filament in the nozzle to properly start the print again at the end of the travel move.
To fix: Lower your retraction length. Give it a bit extra restart distance to prime the nozzle after the retraction. To fix: Slow down the retraction speed. Check that the feeder pinch wheel tension is correct.
Inconsistent Extrusion: How To fix Over Extrusion 3D printing over extrusion is one form of inconsistent extrusion the other being under extrusion. Explanation: Over extrusion is when the printer is extruding too much plastic through the nozzle. Filament Not Feeding Properly Proper operation depends on your extruder being able to feed the correct amount of material at any given time. Extruder motor is clicking A stepper motor will start clicking when it is skipping steps. Possible reasons include: Deformed filament Remove the filament from the extruder and check how it looks.
Reduce friction Check your filament path for excess friction. Nozzle clogged Your nozzle or HotEnd is clogged. Pro tip: Increase the Vref of the extruder stepper, giving it a little more power to maybe push a bit stronger without skipping.
The Bowden tube is worn in the inside and has increased friction. The bend radius of the Bowden tube is too high. Consider a longer tube or straighten its path. Or the end of the tube is frayed or has been cut at an angle. Any gap there will lead to clogs sooner or later as the melted filament leaks out around the tube causing it to deform.
Motor is wildly turning back and forth even with no filament loaded: This could be a sign of a loose motor cable either at the board or the motor end, a broken cable or broken or loose pin in the connector.
Extruder Is Grinding Filament Grinding filament is never welcome and not what you want to see but keep reading on how to spot and fix the issue. Signs the extruder is grinding filament: The picture on the left shows a section of filament after it was manually pulled out of the extruder. Explanation: This usually happens when the pressure inside the HotEnd gets too high or if there is anything blocking filament transport.
How to fix: Deformed filament or filament diameter too thick Use good calipers or a better yet a micrometer screw gauge to measure the diameter of the filament coming of the spool and check if it is round or has been flattened. Filament not unspooling from the spool, kinked, knotted or twisted on the spool You may be able to see the issue and untangle the knot or remove a layer or two if there is a kink.
Too much friction in filament path especially common with worn or dirty Bowden tubes Check the filament path is clean, especially if using a Bowden tube. Trying to extrude too much material for the nozzle size Calibrate your extruder and reduce your material flow. Signs the extruder is crushing filament: A tell-tale sign for filament being crushed is that is appears deformed. Explanation: This problem is related to [Extruder is grinding filament] and is usually a precursor of that.
This happens a lot when: The feeder gear idler pressure is way too high, deforming the filament while it passes through the feeder. The same part of filament is getting retracted, pushed forward, retracted multiple times.
Printing something with a lot of retractions in short order will wreak havoc on the filament, especially if the feeder idler pressure is squeezing the filament a bit too tight. How to fix: Idler Tension If your extruder is equipped with some form of idler tension adjustment, decrease the tension.
FToo many retractions If the problem is caused by too many retractions, use a slicer software that allows better control and reduce the amount of retractions occurring. Other Filament Issues The quality and state of your filament plays a vital role to the success and quality of your prints.
Filament slipping There could be a thin section on a spool with inconsistent diameter. Brittle filament Brittle filament, breaking or snapping may mean stale filament. Clogged Nozzle Clogged extruders happen. Signs of a clogged nozzle: Most full blockages will give you an early warning sign by under extruding first, signalling a partial blockage. Explanation: Clogged nozzles can happen due to various reasons.
The printer was left sitting idle with a heated nozzle. The nozzle has not been regularly cleaned and build up has occurred. The filament you were previously printing, printed at a very different temperature to the current filament.
Generally once exposed to the air, we Prevent any accumulation in your nozzle by doing pre-emptive maintenance regularly cleaning. Use a filament filter. They can be printed and files are available on websites like thingiverse. Cooked filament blocks nozzles. Use particle filled filaments in nozzle with at least 0. Extrude a bit of rigid. Especially when switching from a high temp material to a low temp one, or when cleaning up after particle filled filaments. Unblock a clogged nozzle You can try to dislodge the block in your nozzle with an acupuncture needle, hypodermic needle or an uncoated high-e guitar string.
Once you got the clog dislodged, try cleaning filament see FLOSS, a high-performance cleaning filament. Another equally brutal and somewhat dangerous way is to torch your nozzle with a blowtorch after removing it from the printer first!
The idea is to heat and melt the blockage within the nozzle. This is NOT a method rigid. With ABS you could try to soak it in an acetone bath overnight. The acetone should dissolve the blockage but will only work with materials acetone soluble have been used rigid. You can do the same for PLA with a bath of ethyl acetate. Often, blockages occur right after the drive gear, especially when using flexible filaments. This can be common for some printers, so be sure to read up on if your printer is suitable to print flexible filaments.
Modifications can also be printed for some extruders, files are available on websites like thingiverse. Bowden tubes like to gather debris, increasing friction, causing blockages.
Inspect, clean and replace as needed. Also make sure your tube is seated firmly as far in as possible. If the tube moves, for example during retractions, chances for a blockage increase. Right around the heat break. Usually a sign of insufficient HotEnd cooling or too high of a retraction distance. Stringing and Oozing 3D printer stringing and nozzle oozing are two common 3D printer problems that usually share the same root cause.
Signs of stringing and oozing: The signs on stringing and oozing are usually quite obvious, as seen on the print in the image. Explanation: As filament stringing and oozing is often caused by incorrect printing temperature and retraction settings.
How to fix: Increase retraction distance Increase the retraction distance in your slicer. Increase retraction speed Increase the retraction speed. Arrange prints closer Long travel distances around the build plate tend to make your 3D print stringy, so if you can rearrange the objects to be closer on the bed, this could help against stringing 3D printing. This may not be an option for single item prints Increase travel speed Try increasing your travel speed in your slicer.
Increase cooling Increase cooling fans. Print single objects If printing multiple parts at once, try printing single objects instead of placing multiple objects on the build plate. Filament specific tips: Flexible filament usually needs longer retractions as it stretches while being pulled backwards. However retractions on flexibles is even trickier than actually printing flexible filaments, so you might be forced to go with shorter or even no retraction at all in order to be able to print it in the first place.
If you all of a sudden blast it with full part cooling fans, it might crack. Overheating One of the ugliest forms of bad 3D prints is overheating. How to fix: Increase the part cooling fans. This may not be suitable for all filaments though so be sure to check the manufacturers recommendations. Try printing colder to begin with. Sometimes you can get away with a cooler printing temperature for the rest of the print with the same result.
Alternatively, reduce the temperature when the printer is approaching the problem area. Print slower, giving the print more time to cool down. Consider the 15 second rule: the time for the nozzle coming back to the same point on your object should not be less than 15s. If your slicer supports it, set a minimum time per layer to ensure proper cooling.
Pro tip: you could add a pause to the layer change script and park the nozzle away from the object for a few seconds. Workaround: try printing two copies of the object at the same time, the travel moves between the 2 objects will increase the layer time and allow for more cooling.
We always suggest starting at the lower end of the suggested temperature range and work your way up. ASA does not like fans or draughts. Try reducing your printing temperature if you experience over heating with ASA. Explanation: The heat from the bed tends to be too much for the filament causing it to flare out. Increase the nozzle to bed distance slightly.
Walls Caving In A very similar problem to elephants foot, sans the flared out first layer. Signs of walls caving in: Part of the wall of a print has caved in and then returned to the correct structure after a few layers.
Explanation: The weight of the subsequent layers crushes the lower layers that never had a chance to fully harden. How to fix: Lower the bed temperature.
Set your printing temperature lower. The cooler you can print, the quicker the printed filament will cool, preventing layer crushing and caving. Try reducing your printing temperature if you experience caving in with ASA. Curling and Rough Corners Curling and rough corners is very easy to spot and looks quite the mess compared to the sides of the print. Signs of curling and rough corners: Rough corners are basically corners that are curling upwards.
Explanation: Curling as well as rough corners are another symptom of printing too hot — or insufficient cooling. How to fix: Try printing cooler.
We always suggest printing at the lower end of the temperature range suggested by the manufacturer. Print slower to give the printed line more time to cool before the next layer is put down. Workaround: Try a different layer height. In the classic benchy case, printing the benchy at a 0. In other cases, a lower layer height works better. Experimenting may be needed for your particular print so make one small change at a time and test.
Pro tip: Increase overall cooling capabilities by adding more external fans next to the printer or optimizing fan duct design. Filament specific tips: ASA does not like fans or draughts. Cracking or Layer Separation Cracking can be difficult to differentiate from temporary under extrusion but this section will help you figure it out and how to fix it. Explanation: Cracking occurs when 3D printing layers separate because of the forces exerted on the print when layers cool at a different rate.
How to fix: Lower layer height You could be trying to print using a layer height that is too high for your nozzle. Reduce cooling Slow down or turn off your part cooling fan speed. Use an enclosure Protect your print from drafts of cold air. Change filament Some filaments simply have less layer adhesion than others. Filament specific tips: ABS is highly susceptible to 3D printer layer separation due to cold air hitting the print before it has cooled down fully.
We suggest no fans for rigid. ASA can also be very susceptible to 3D printer layer separation. Signs of layers shifting and misaligned layers: As seen in the image, you can see the shift in the print and that the layers are not aligned. Explanation: Unfortunately issues like this can happen randomly and often part way through a print. How to fix: Slow it down Trying to print too fast will cause the motors to skip, resulting in 3D printing layer shifting.
Pro tip: check your jerk and acceleration settings as well. Check filament is free A temporary problem with the filament not unspooling cleanly a knot or tangles on the spool might have blocked the movement of the direct drive extruder causing your 3D printer shifting layers.
Pro tip: Increase the Vref for this stepper motor to give it a bit more strength. Layers Missing or Skipped Layers This may be one of those problems with 3D printing that you can live with, although it can be an early warning sign of worsening under extrusion. Signs of weak of under extruded infill: Your 3D printing infill looks weak or under-extruded spongy in appearance. How to fix: Reduce the Z-axis movement speed in your slicer settings. Make sure your Z-axis can travel freely.
Check your Z-axis, Clean and lubricate your smooth rods, rails, lead-screw etc. If the error occurs exactly on the same layer in repeated prints, there could also be an issue with a bent or misaligned lead screw. Pro Tip: check acceleration and jerk settings for the Z-axis. Check the exact resolution of your Z-axis motor steps and properties of the lead-screw and set layer heights to use full steps. Sometimes, a 0.
If this is a newly assembled DIY printer kit, look into the micro-stepping behaviour of your stepper drivers. If this is a pre-built machine, contact the manufacturer for hardware support. Weak or Under-Extruded Infill This may be one of those problems with 3D printing that you can live with, although it can be an early warning sign of worsening under extrusion. Explanation: Often due to settings being slightly out, while you may get away with poor infill not affecting the external appearance of your 3D print quality, it provides almost no stability to the print.
Increase heat on faster prints You may be printing too cold for the desired print speed. Deformed Infill Infill is usually printed in a regular pattern, like in a grid, or boxes or even honeycomb structures. Signs of deformed infill: The pattern of infill appears deformed rather than printing evenly. How to fix: Infill printed too fast With most slicers, the infill is printed at the highest print speed specified, while outlines for example are printed slower. Decrease skip You may have set the infill to skip layers.
If the infill deforms, decrease the skip amount. Increase infill extrusion width Your infill extrusion width may be still be set at a reduced amount if you were trying to save weight on a previous print. Insert diaphragm Some slicers allow a solid diaphragm to be printed every so many layers. Signs of insufficient retractions: Similar to stringing and oozing, you will see excess filament on your print in areas where there is not meant to be filament.
How to fix: Use non-stationary retractions in your slicer software This is a setting in your slicer software. Use a different restart distance This is a setting in more advanced slicers.
Or use a shorter or negative restart distance to push back less filament than initially retracted, which will help with eliminating blobs at the restart point Printer cooler Stringing at its heart is molten filament oozing out of the nozzle during a fast travel move. Try a different spool of filament Some filaments are more prone to stringing than others. Blobs and 3D Printing Zits Blobs and 3D print zits on the outside of your model can seriously affect the looks of print.
Signs of blobs and 3D printing zits Blob and 3D printing zits are another case of excess filament on your print. Explanation: Often caused by retraction settings, additional filament blobs out and onto the print. Dents 3D printer blobs and zits also appear on the surface of your print in random locations if your filament absorbed too much moisture.
Signs of infill poking through the outline: At a first glance, the blobs in the picture shown might look just like your standard blobs from improper extrusion. Explanation: The blobs are usually a result of the retraction that is occurring at those points. How to fix: Use more outlines to stop the infill poking through. Tell your slicer to print the outlines before doing the infill.
As the blobs are usually a result of the retraction, optimising your retraction settings as well as calibrating basic extrusion parameters will help as well. Reducing the infill overlap amount in your slicer will also help. Scratches on Top Layers If it indeed is a scratch, sometimes it is hard to tell if it is really a scratch or if the line was in fact caused by the nozzle oozing onto the top surface during the move.
Explanation: The long scratch visible on the top layer in the picture shown was caused by the nozzle dragging across the top layer when moving across to go on printing the rest of the frame around it. How to fix: One approach would be to try and fix the over-extrusion or the warp. Another is to use the Z-Hop feature of your slicer. Z-Hop will lift the nozzle up a certain amount before moving across to prevent the scratch.
With combing, the nozzle will travel along the outline instead of crossing it and going straight across your print, which will often avoid this issue entirely though not necessarily in this example. Other ways to reduce 3D printing pillowing are: Print colder or increase fan speeds. Use a higher infill percentage.
More infill means smaller gaps, which are easier to cover. Another possible cause for gaps in your top layer is under-extrusion. See [Under-extrusion]. Holes and gaps in floor corners These 3D printer errors happen where a horizontal surface meets an inclined one.
Not enough top layers — increase the top layers count so you are printing at least 1mm thick. Printing too hot — print at a lower temperature so the plastic sets in position faster. Printing too fast — slow down the print speed.
This allows the extruded plastic to cool more before the next pass of the nozzle. If kept too warm, the layer will peel back from where it was printed.
Not enough cooling — if at all possible, increase cooling during the printing of these parts of the object. Too little infill — increasing the infill percentage will help. Also look at the minimum infill length in your slicer and reduce this to allow smaller runs of infill to be printed at the edges of an object instead of being ignored. This setting makes sure they go all the way to the edge and fuse together and so help support the layers above.
Too much retraction — causes there to be gaps in positions where retractions take place, so reduce this. Between infill and outlines If this happens on your first layer, chances are your nozzle to bed distance is not set properly. If it happens later in the print: This could be a result of printing too fast, try printing slower. It could be a sign of temporary under extrusion.
See [ Under-extrusion]. Another possibility is wrong extrusion settings in your slicer. Check what was dialled in is correct for your printer and print. Increase your extrusion multiplier Simplify3D. Increase extrusion width. Increase overlap settings. Gaps between thin walls When trying to print thin walls that are not multiples of your nozzle width in thickness, there is a common problem with slicers leaving a gap inside walls, severely weakening the structural strength of your wall.
Therefore you should always strive to stick to a multiple of your nozzle width when designing thin walls to help alleviate the issue: Thin wall options — A lot of slicers today have special thin wall options, make yourself familiar with them and see where they can take you.
Adjust line width — Adjust not necessarily increase line width or the amount of outlines to force your slicer to construct your wall differently. You can try increasing your extrusion multiplier to close the gap by intentionally over-extruding.
You can also set a narrower nozzle diameter in your slicer settings than you actually have fitted. If used with care and balanced against the extrusion multiplier, this can overcome some situations that your favourite slicer cannot cope with. How to fix: Check your slicer settings for thin wall options. Rotate the part so the fine details are on the Z-plane and reduce your layer height if necessary.
Get a finer nozzle, the finer the nozzle the smaller lines you can print.
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